Where to Soak Up That Hangover in Paris

Paris chefs and restaurant folks share their go-to spots for spicy noodles, smash burgers, fried cuttlefish, & more.

photo courtesy of Dumbo

“Pour one jigger of absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”

This was Hemingway’s hangover cure, doled out in Death in the Afternoon. To that I say: Girl, no. Would not be my go-to. I’m a believer in the hair-of-the-dog—a drink to take the edge off the mental anguish of a hangover. I don’t get the headaches or the nausea, but I do get the blues. A little demi to quell the hang-xiety, or if I’m feeling bold, a Blood Mary, heavy-handed with the tabasco. But it has to be in the evening. Day drinking is never as enjoyable as I want it to be. Nevertheless, I’d rather swim laps in the Seine than sip a milky-looking, licorice-tinged cocktail. Sorry, Papa.

Of course, the very best hangover cure is abstinence, which is what I’ve been mostly doing for the past few weeks. My January was sloshier than the streets of New York and my brain needed a proper reset. Aware of my tendency to imbibe not too much but rather, too often, I try to take periodic breaks. In Paris, it’s so easy to slide into the habit of just a petite verre, a little glass, each night. But once you get in the habit of not drinking, you realize that it’s also quite easy to not drink. There’s so much to do—restaurants to try (lately: Gourou, Street Bangkok, À La Renaissance, Orson, Ficelle Sandwicherie), exhibitions to take in, movies to watch (recent fav: La Grazia at Le Louxur), and cozy girl dinners with friends at home, a bunch of snacks and a cold bottle of kombucha (served in the crystal wine glasses that I found in an antique store in Normandy).

A Libra, a striver for balance and moderation, I will go back to sipping eventually. I love a glass of bubbly before dinner, a crisp wine with it, a post-work demi on a terrace, or an ice cold dirty martini (some personal fav spots to sip that ‘tini: Harry’s, Bar Josephine, Sister Midnight, Le Classique, the bar at Maggie in Hotel Rochechouart). As invincible as I’m feeling right now, fully inhabiting the pink cloud, I’m sure there will be rough mornings in my future. I always ask people in The 75 Interview series where they head to cure their hangovers in Paris.

Here’s what they’ve said.

Céline Chung, Bao Family (and now, Street Bangkok)

Where: Dumbo

Order: a smash burger and chicken nuggets, no fries

Ollie Clark, Quedubon

Where: “Got to follow the Bourdain technique for a hangover. Cold coke, joint, spicy Chinese food, or Thai/Laotian. Living in Belleville that would have to be Lao Siam, they do offal and natural wines.

Order: The spicy foie de veau (calf liver) is a banger

Carrie Solomon, Chez Carrie

Where: Chez Carrie

Order: Eggs Benedict with spicy ‘nduja — “Honestly, these days my hangovers are few and far between. But I did manage to get one a while back. I work brunch all weekend, so my fix is at the restaurant — Eggs Benedict with spicy ‘nduja is my go-to.”

Félix Moulin, Recoin

Where: Loan

Order: Phở classique

Alternative:

• McDonald’s (Le Royal™ Deluxe, 4-piece chicken nuggets, Croque McDo™, and 5 Creamy Deluxe sauces) in bed, watching a show

This, and Netflix in bed

Jack Bosco Baker, Le Canard Sauvage

Where: Le Grand Bol

Order: seiches frites (fried cuttlefish), “crispy outside, soft inside”

Malik Bouzid, (currently) Jaja Bistro

Where: Bobby

Order: I always get their Neapolitan pizza—so simple—with a really good tomato sauce, some amazing anchovies, a few capers, a bit of oregano. The crust is thin and super crispy, wood-fired. It’s the most comforting dish, and it really lifts my spirits after a heavy night.

Julien Catelain, Mehmet

Where: Bises Nouilles

Order: Spicy dandan noodles

Erica Paredes, Reyna & Mischief

Where: Sonny’s

Order: Chopped cheese pizza (mozzarella fior di latte, cheddar, chili oil sauce, ground beef, red peppers, onions)

Alternatives:

• Hanzhou’s dumplings that are always in my freezer

• Instant ramen with butter and cheese (“i swear its good lol”)

• Popeyes louisiana cheesy onion sandwich

• junk Smash burger—medium with fries

Caitlin Gunther, me, The 75

Where: Street Bangkok (rue Saint Denis)

Order: Fried chicken bites and pad thai

ICYMI